Fill the basin full, let it soak in, and fill it a second time. It should be wide enough to accommodate the root system of the plant (generally out to the drip line of the plant) and high enough to hold three or four inches of water when full. Knowing this, our recommendation is to water deeply by building a basin around fruit trees that are not watered by lawn sprinklers. If the soil is constantly waterlogged, there is not enough oxygen available to the root system and the roots suffocate and begin to die. The roots of a plant require oxygen in order to function. It is common for people to kill or unnecessarily stress their plants by watering too frequently. Then give the soil a chance to dry slightly between waterings. This encourages the plant to develop a deep, drought tolerant root system. Get the water down a minimum of 18" at each watering. The basic rule of thumb is to water deeply, but infrequently. Factors such as the soil type, how big the plant is, how fast the plant is growing, air temperature, humidity, wind and light intensity all will affect how often a particular plant will need watering. It is impossible to give a watering schedule that will be right for everyone all of the time. If you’re unsure about where to make the cut, come on in to Bookcliff Gardens, we’ll be glad to help you. When pruning, it’s very important that the pruning cut be made outside of the branch collar (the swollen area at the base of the branch). Come see us at Bookcliff Gardens to get more information. There are also specific annual pruning techniques that can be employed on your fruit tree to maximize fruit production. This has the effect of lowering the overall height of the tree, making it easier to prune, spray and harvest. In this case, the tree is encouraged to branch close to the ground (18”-36”) and then training the tree to form an upside down cone with the middle empty of branches. An alternative method of pruning is to train it as an “orchard tree’. In this case, any other pruning is best limited to removal of dead, diseased, unsightly, or competing branches. Gradually limb up the tree by removing one or two of the lowest branches each year until it’s at the head clearance is at the desired height. One way is to train it as a small ornamental landscape tree. You can continue to do this about once per month to promote good growth from your tree.Fruit trees can be pruned several ways. Apply this 5 gallons per inch of trunk caliper. Next spring before the new growth starts (about mid-February) you can fertilize the tree using a solution of 21-0-0 (ammonium sulfate), mixed at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. You may continue to apply the root stimulator solution as this will aid the tree in getting those roots established. You should not fertilize your tree until it has a chance to get roots established out into the surrounding soil. ![]() If it feels dry, then give the rootball a good soaking. If the soil in the root ball feels moist when you insert your index finger up to the second joint, the tree does not need water. As the article says, you should use your index finger as a moisture meter to check for wetness. ![]() Also you need to watch your watering to insure that you do not overwater the tree. If your tree is 9 feet tall with only a 1 inch caliper, you may need to stake it. ![]() See the article at the Aggie Web site listed below on the proper planting and staking (when necessary) of new trees.
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